Chapter 7 · walkthrough
Raking courses and shaped gables
Turn a plain gable end into a Dutch gable with curved shoulders, a round-topped neck, a brick-on-edge coping, ball finials and carved scrolls; change it to a crow-stepped gable; then lay a band of raking courses along the verges of the other end. Every step is shown in the preview and in the 3D window.
1Before you start
Both cards in this chapter work on a gable wall: a panel with Gable Wall enabled (see chapter 1). Our example is a small building of four walls set up in the Building window (chapter 5) with a 45° slate roof: a front and a back 90 mm long, and two plain gable ends, Left end and Right end, 60 mm wide and 36 mm to the eaves, in Flemish bond.
Click Left end in the Layers list to make it the panel you are working on. In the left-hand column, under Gable Wall, you will now find the Shaped Gable card, and a little further down the Raking Courses card. Neither appears on a wall without a gable.
A shaped gable needs a plain triangular gable, the same both sides: a Simple, Triangular gable with no taper. On a semicircular, asymmetric or north-light gable the tick box is greyed out and the card says so in an amber note.
2Make a Dutch gable
- With Left end selected, tick Dutch, Flemish or stepped on the Shaped Gable card.
- The card opens with a Dutch gable already worked out: Style Shaped (Dutch, Flemish), two shoulders each side curving in, a neck 3 courses above the roof with a round top, and a coping of bricks on edge cut as a separate layer.
- The preview redraws the wall at once. Its outline is cut to the new shape and the brickwork fills it.
BrickIT! works the shape out from the brick: every ledge and shoulder starts at a whole course, and every one stands at least a course above the roof line, so the whole gable is a parapet. If you later change the wall's width, height, gable or brick size, the shape is worked out again to suit.
3The shoulders
Shoulders each side sets how many curved steps the gable climbs on each side, from 1 to 3. The Shoulders list beside it sets how each one curves:
We go back to two shoulders, curving in, for the rest of the walkthrough.
4The neck and its top
The neck is the upright part at the top. Neck width (mm) is its width - between a tenth and three fifths of the wall's width (18 mm on our 60 mm wall to start with) - and Neck above the roof (courses) is how far it rises above the ridge line, from 0 to 12 courses. Neck top finishes it:
The coping follows whichever top you choose. We keep Round.
5A coping along the top
Coping along its top caps the gable's whole top edge, round every curve: Bricks on edge (half a brick deep, radiating round the curves, mitred at each corner), Stone, or None.
With Cut as a separate layer, glued on ticked (the default), the coping is cut as its own part on the Detail Layer sheet, and the wall is engraved with its outline so you know where to glue it. Untick it and the coping's joints are simply engraved flush on the wall.
On the Detail Layer (relief) card in the right-hand column, Raking & copings includes the coping on the detail sheet.
2The card counts it: 1 part: 1 gable coping piece. Detail SVG and Detail DXF export the sheet, with the coping's joints engraved on the part. See chapter 4.
6Finials, scrolls and a round window
The middle of the card dresses the gable up:
Finial on the top: Ball, Obelisk or Urn. It is cut with the wall's outline, standing on the coping, and is stone in the 3D view.
2A smaller one on every shoulder puts a smaller finial on each ledge (it appears once a top finial is chosen). Ledges too short to take one are left without, and the card says so.
3A carved scroll at the foot of every shoulder: a round stone with a spiral engraved on it, where each shoulder's curve rises from its ledge, tucked under the coping. Each scroll is a piece on the Detail Layer sheet; the wall is engraved with its outline to place it by, and its courses stop round it.
4+ Add a round window under the neck adds a round window with a brick ring, centred in the gable and placed clear of the roof inside. It is an ordinary window (here W1), so you can change it on the Windows & Doors card. Once it is there the button is greyed out: No room for one: another window is in the way.
7Heights and warnings
At the foot of the card a summary gives the gable's highest point - finials included - from the bottom of the wall and above the eaves. Use it to check against your drawings.
When a choice can't be built as asked, an amber note says why. Here we widened the neck to 36 mm, which leaves the ledges too short to take a scroll:
Other notes you may see: the neck too wide for its shoulders, or the gable too narrow for the number of steps. Each tells you what to change. We put the neck back to 18 mm.
8See it in 3D
Click 🧱 3D on the preview's toolbar. The gable is drawn in its true shape, its coping standing proud as the glued-on layer will, the finials and scrolls in stone. Because the shaped gable stands above the roof all round, the roof stops at its inner face, and it gets no coping or bargeboard from the roof settings.
The shape carries through everything else the wall makes: Export SVG and DXF, Print 1:1, the resin print and the core on the carcass sheets all follow it. Close the 3D window with its × button.
9A crow-stepped gable
- On the same wall, change Style to Crow-stepped. The shoulder and neck boxes give way to Steps each side (2 to 8; 4 to start with) and Top step (courses), how far the top step stands above the roof (1 to 12).
- Untick A carved scroll at the foot of every shoulder. Scrolls are for shoulders, and a stepped gable has none: an amber note says so, and the box stays on the card until you untick it. Change back to Dutch or Flemish later and you can tick it again.
- We set Finial on the top back to None. With a finial, A smaller one on every step puts one on each step.
The steps are whole half-bricks wide and whole courses high. The coping now caps each step. The round window we added stays, as it is an ordinary opening.
10Raking courses on a plain gable
Raking courses are a band of brick laid parallel to the slopes of a gable, as on many Belgian and Dutch gables; the wall's level courses stop against them, and the two sides meet in a mitre at the apex.
- Click Right end in the Layers list.
- Find the Raking Courses card in the left-hand column and tick Along the verges.
The bricks are set out from the apex, so the cut bricks either side match, and there are no slivers against the ends or the mitre. A sloping top line (a pediment, say) takes raking courses too, and so does a front layer glued on a wall.
11Depth, bond and foot
Courses deep is how wide the band is, from 1 to 12 courses. Bond is Stretcher, English or Flemish; it starts as the wall's own bond when that is one of the three, otherwise stretcher.
Foot chooses how the band ends at the eaves. Here with five courses:
If a band can't be fitted as asked, an amber note on the card says why.
12Glued on or flush, and in 3D
With Cut as a separate layer ticked (the default), the band is cut as its own part, Raking courses, on the Detail Layer sheet with its courses engraved, and the wall engraves the band's outline so you can glue it in place. The Detail Layer (relief) card then counts 1 raking course band. Untick it and the courses are engraved flush on the wall instead. The preview draws the courses either way.
Print 1:1 and the resin print always show the band's courses, whichever you choose.
Where next
- To cut the wall and the Detail Layer sheet: Cutting it out.
- For the roof, copings and pictures of the building: 3D, roofs and pictures.
- To print a shaped gable in resin: Stone walls and resin printing.